Krakow, Poland
Thursday, September 12 – Another beautiful day in Poland dawned cool and crisp. It was only about 52 when I set out on this morning’s jog. As I passed through the Old Town Square just after 6AM, there was a woman in a lightweight wedding gown doing a photo shoot–now there’s some dedication to your Insta followers, tempting pneumonia!
I warmed up quickly enough and enjoyed seeing the colors in the sky, culminating with watching the sun rise just behind Wawel Castle, which then was mirrored in the river.
I headed back, I thought the way I had come, but soon realized nothing looked familiar. Uh oh….jogged aimlessly for a while and was ready to put on the GPS when I realized I could use my “context clues.” Trams were running, and I knew which ones went near our apartment. Following their route, I soon came upon Dan’s infamous “vanilla building” from the opposite direction. I spent the last 100 yards of my extra long run patting myself on the back 
.
We had left this day open for possible day trips, but both agreed we would prefer to wander the city. And wander we did!
We walked all the way back to Kazimierz, saw some additional synagogues, and then headed towards the river and the “Church on the Rock.” It is a really interesting church and monastery with a very long history involving the martyrdom of St Stanislaus, who was killed by the Polish King in 1079. Subsequent kings then had to make a pilgrimage to this sight as penance for the behavior of their predecessor. Today, it also houses the National Pantheon. I hadn’t read about it in any of my research, so I’m glad we stumbled upon it.
We continued to stroll along the river and found ourselves next to the steps leading up to Wawel Castle and Cathedral. So, why not climb up? We weren’t interested in going in either of them, particularly when we saw the number of people heading inside–we all know how much I enjoy hordes of slow shuffling tourists with selfie sticks and no sense of personal bubble.
However, the ramparts, flowers, and courtyard were great for strolling and getting a great view of the city from above. Well worth the hike up.
After that, we were ready for a break, and we found a little restaurant tucked off the street in its own little courtyard (are you sensing a theme here? I enjoy courtyards, particularly sparsely populated ones). Lunch was simple, but the shade and a large carafe of water were just what we needed to recharge.
We then visited one other church, the Basilica of St Francis. It is known for its art nouveau walls and beautiful stained glass windows. I popped in yesterday and wanted Dan to see it. In my opinion, it is more beautiful and FAR less crowded than St Mary’s Basilica, the most famous church in Krakow, which is also the one most filled with loud pushy visitors. (I also stopped by there, very briefly, yesterday and got the heck away)
So yes, we do have a few church photos today, but I think both have interesting back stories, so they made Chris’s cut!
Dan did some research himself ( it turns out he does know how to read) and found an interesting little museum at the university here in Krakow. First, we walked through a small green area, the Professors’ Garden, where we learned how in 1939 professors and academics were rounded up and sent to a work camp near Berlin–yet another story I had not known and it probably hit me just a little harder now that Erin is in academia herself.
We continued by touring the museum building itself, which is housed in the oldest university edifice in Poland, dating back to 1400. Set up as a series of period specific rooms, it houses a collection of art and a broad selection of university souvenirs including a Nobel Prize, an Olympic gold medal (for race walking!) an Academy award and many scientific instruments. Another one of those small but fascinating museums tucked into European cities–good job Dan!
At that point, we decided to head back “home” and do one final load of laundry so we could head to England with all clean clothes. This also gave us both a little time to relax and for me to sort my notes and photos–the toils and tribulations of a travel blogger 
Since she did such a great job the first time we tried, we again asked the woman at reception for a restaurant recommendation. She suggested a tapas bar and made us a reservation. It was less than 15 minutes walk, but clearly in a residential area well away from the tourist center. Excellent choice! We enjoyed our dinner and another nice evening stroll home. Another Chris travel tip–use the resources at your lodging–they know the spots that aren’t in the guidebooks!
Tomorrow is our final day in Poland–it has gone by so quickly!
29,950 steps; 15.6 miles
Hotel:
H11 Aparthotel: https://www.h11aparthotel.com/en/
“Church on the Rock” (Basilica of St Michael the Archangel):
Short walk from Kazimierz Square near the bend in the Vistula RIver. Free to walk around the grounds and poke your head into the buildings. It is still an active monastery so some buildings are off limits. Can purchase tickets for a guided tour if interested.
Wawel Castle:
Most historically and cultural significant sight in Poland — also most visited. Tickets must be purchased to tour Castle or Cathedral, we just walked the grounds and took in the views.
Basilica of St Francis:
www.franciszkanska.pl
Free to enter, including part of the cloisters, one chapel reserved for silent prayer.
Jagiellonian University Museum:
https://www.uj.edu.pl/struktura/muzea
Free to wander through Professors’ Garden, tickets required for the museum. Can be purchased online or simply at office off the courtyard of the museum which is well signed.
Check website for days and hours
Wandered through more of Kazimierz, past additional synagogues and somewhat stumbled upon the Church on the Rock, which was quite interesting and not at all busy.
Wawel Castle, as noted, is hugely crowded, but the grounds are lovely and was glad we wandered up to see them and the buildings. Did not feel cheated to not buy tix for the castle or cathedral, though those are on some tourist’s “must see” list.
I loved The St Francis Basilica. I first poked my head in yesterday, and wanted to bring Dan back. Close to the Old Town Center, it is quiet and contemplative and has absolutely gorgeous stained glass. Honestly, liked it far better than St Mary’s on the square, which I only popped into briefly yesterday. It was a complete madhouse, where you feel the tourist crowds have completely violated the sacred nature of the space.
The University, too, was a nice find away from the tourist hordes. Again, not a long walk, but uncrowded, and the garden in particular, tells a very sobering story.
Breakfast:
Replenished our stock of breakfast items in the kitchen and again ate in.
Lunch:
Trzy Papryczki:
http://trzypapryczki.krakow.pl/o-nas/
Pizza place with a beautiful leafy courtyard. We were early, so had the area almost to ourselves. Shared some fine pizza and water and were good to go for more exploring.
Dinner:
Alejo’s Bistro, Tapas & Wine:
Took advantage of our receptionist who recommended and made reservations for us. Only 15 minutes walk, but away from the tourist center, so filled with local people. Bustling and friendly, great selection and good wine.
Jagiellonian University
Dinner
This was the day we had left open for possible day trips outside the city (Auschwitz, the Wieliczka Salt Mine). However, both required a lot logistical effort and, in the case of Auschwitz, a heavy emotional lift. I know there are many who cannot imagine going to Poland and not visiting, but it felt right for us.
Instead, we tried to focus on the lesser known sights of Krakow (Wawel Hill excepted, but we avoided the most crowded aspects of that). None of them are “must sees” but all of them presented a unique side of this beautiful and interesting city.