Gdansk, Poland
Tuesday, September 3 – What a difference a good night’s sleep can make! Woke up just before sunrise feeling great. I decided on an early morning jog, Dan opted to take a walk. We both took photos, so I’m including an early morning collage from each of us for you to vote on 
. One thing to keep in mind–mine were taken with an elevated heart rate!
After cleaning up, we checked out the hotel breakfast–I love the variety of options–this ain’t no Hampton Inn collection of rubber eggs and make your own waffles, that’s for sure.
We had 10AM tickets to the European Solidarity Center, so we were able to take a relaxed stroll via the Market Hall and Solidarity Square. The Solidarity Center itself was terrific. A great audio guide led us through the exhibits and artifacts in great detail. While I knew this was history made during my lifetime, I was humbled to realize how little I really knew about it. It was fascinating and educational, in the exact location where it all occurred. I highly recommend a visit for anyone going to Poland. However, I do believe there should be a rule that requires all men 55+ to be on a leash with a choke collar!
After our visit, we grabbed some lunch and made a stop at the train station to get some tickets for tomorrow’s adventures. Dan decided to do some reading at the hotel while I ventured on my own personal church pilgrimage (come on, it’s a Chris travel blog, of course there will be churches!)
I went to the biggest (St Mary’s) where I climbed the 400 steps of the tower to get a birds eye view of the city–it was just as well I left Dan home–the tower was hot, cramped and high–three things he just adores. And, truth be told, I really don’t think the views were anything special.
I then visited St Catherine’s, the oldest church in Gdansk. It is very simple, but houses a massive carillon as well as a cool tuxedo cat.
My final church stop was also the most interesting. St Bridget’s Church became the sanctuary for the Solidarity movement. Wandering through it, you realize how intertwined patriotism and devotion are in Poland. The centerpiece is a giant altar made of amber, constructed in thanks for the papacy of John Paul II and the regaining of Polish independence in the 20th century. Visiting it the same day as the Solidarity Center was ideal–the two sights really complement one another. However, I will say that being asked if I warranted the Senior rate upon entering was NOT a compliment!
I wound my way back “home” to find Dan at a cafe table outside the hotel. We enjoyed a beverage, then headed out for some dinner. We shared a small but delicious pizza and then a nice riverfront stroll back among the tourists and buskers.
Tomorrow, new adventures await!
32,366 steps, 16.4 miles
Hotel:
- Fama Residence: https://www.famagdansk.pl Highly recommend, friendly staff, located in heart of Old Town, excellent breakfast.
- European Solidarity Center: https://ecs.gda.pl/en/
- Tickets are for timed entry, includes audio guide, can be purchased in advance online
- Check website for days and hours
- Note, free to explore monuments outside of museum on Solidarity Square, definitely plan time to do that as well, very valuable exhibits.
- St Mary’s Church – largest church in Gdansk, free to enter, fee to climb tower.
- St Catherine’s – oldest in Gdansk. Free to enter, believe there is a fee to climb up tower to carillon.
- St Bridget’s – Lech Walesa’s church, the home church of Solidarity with memorials to the movement and a large amber alter. Small fee to enter.
European Solidarity Center and Solidarity Square – highly recommend, excellent review of history that occurred during my lifetime
St Mary’s Church – lots of city history, some beautiful artwork, cool astrological clock which seems odd in a Catholic church. Tower view wasn’t really worth the money (very little) or climb (which wasn’t terribly hard)
St Catherine’s – oldest in Gdansk. I didn’t investigate the carillon, church was fine, found others more interesting. Was a short visit.
St Bridget’s – Excellent complement to visiting the Solidarity Museum. Definitely enjoyed my visit and spent the most time here. In addition to memorials to Solidarity movement and the amber altar, there is a cool crypt – “The Crypt of Skulls” which was discovered during renovation work in 2010 — how would you like to be the guy who discovered a pile of bones while digging? Fascinating stuff.
Breakfast:
The Fama Residence offers breakfast at a specific rate per day which we opted to take. Excellent choice as the breakfast buffet was extensive, well worth the cost. We were happy to have this option.
Lunch:
Pikawa Bistro:
Offers light breakfast, lunch and dinner options, nice outdoor spot on a scenic street, good service
Dinner:
Mono Kitchen Gdansk:
Outdoor seating, view of St Mary’s, excellent pizza and wine, somewhat unenthusiastic waiter.
Solidarity sights are both sobering and inspirational — absolutely the first “must see” if visiting Gdansk in my opinion.