Gdansk, Poland
Wednesday, September 4 – Woke up to another beautiful morning. Had to venture out to find a spot for my resistance workout. Located a little park nearby that suited the purpose—the old guys on the benches and the young guys in uniforms heading to school did not even blink at the old lady doing her tabata routine. Probably just thought it was safest to steer clear.
Another lovely hotel breakfast. Selection was similar to yesterday with the addition of a fruit granola & yogurt cup, which I tried (thumbs up) and pickled herring. I declined that option but was intrigued by the idea that there would be enough demand to warrant inclusion in the buffet.
Today, we decided to take a less common (we thought) day trip to the Hel Peninsula. Yes, we literally went to Hel.
We took the train in the AM and quickly discovered our idea, while relatively novel for those of us from the US, was quite common to Polish locals. The train was jammed, I have seen fewer people on the Green line after a game at Fenway! I believe Dan and I were the only English speakers in our car, so we were unique in that way. For once in my life, I was happy that I am not a particularly tall person. Those above 5’6″ found the seat configurations a bit too cozy for comfort–trust me, I heard all about it! Better yet, the train was on what we used to call a “milk route”– a stop every 5 minutes…delightful.
Arrived in Hel about 10 minutes late and had to rush to pier to get tickets for the ferry before office closed for lunch. We had come to the obvious conclusion that we didn’t want to return via the rail to Cartegena. We had 20 minutes, Google said it would take 18, and I made it in 8. Don’t tell me I walk too fast!
Having that resolved, we enjoyed a leisurely stroll through the woods to the other side of the peninsula, stopping to eat a lunch we had been smart enough to pack ahead of time.
The path took us to a beautiful beach and the Baltic Sea. We were able to walk along the water (Dan wearing his sneakers, he becomes more like his mother every day ) to a boardwalk that wound its way along the water and back to the harbor. It was sunny, with a nice breeze, absolutely perfect. The walk was made more interesting by the fact that it passed several 50s-era military objects left by the Soviets and a point that declared itself the beginning of Poland.
Back at the harbor, we rewarded ourselves with ice cream and a stroll along it’s boardwalk, before boarding the ferry back to Gdansk. The ferry was far more pleasant–not as crowded, and a breeze on deck, but that boat will not be breaking speed records anytime soon. Pretty sure Katie Ledecky passed on on a training run…
Despite the speed (or lack thereof), the second half of the ride was pretty interesting. We stopped at Sopot, a big beach resort with a long boardwalk–for you Philadelphians, like being “down the shore”. Then we passed through Westerplatte, former home of a big monument to the Polish soldiers who fought the Germans at the start of WWII in September 1939 (we are actually here during the 85th anniversary of the initiation of the war). We also got to see today’s Port of Gdansk in action, passing lots of freighters, grain silos, shipping containers and piles of coal being loaded and unloaded along the waterfront. Not a traditional tourist stop, but interesting nonetheless.
Finally got back to our hotel to shower off the sunscreen and sweat and to change into fresh clothes. Due to the hour and our fatigue, we just went back to the hotel bar for dinner (sorry Nancy, no food photos today).
While it was long and required a decent amount of travel time, we were both happy we took this road less traveled (well, at least by American tourists). Tomorrow is our final full day in Gdansk and we plan to stay local.
22,759 steps; 10.1 miles
Hotel:
- Fama Residence: https://www.famagdansk.pl Highly recommend, friendly staff, located in heart of Old Town, excellent breakfast.
Train Tickets:
- We bought our train tickets at the Gdansk station (easy walk from hotel) the day before to make sure we knew what we were doing. Woman didn’t speak much English but we all managed to communicate effectively and she even wrote down the platforms and tracks for us for both trains (two trains, you must connect in Gdynia).
Ferry Tickets:
Operated by Zeluga:
Tickets can be purchased in advance at riverside ticket office in Gdansk or at kiosk on the dock in Hel Harbor as long as there is still space available. Note that the ticket offices are closed for one hour each for lunch and in Hel payment is cash only.
- Hel Penisula (Full Day trip):
- Train out –Ferry back
- Be warned, it is a short distance, but a long (2 1/2 hours) train ride as there are many stops. On a nice day, it is SRO.
- Upon arriving, you are at the harbor, stocked with plenty of bars, restaurants and tourist traps.
- We first purchased our ferry tickets (avoiding the lunch hour closure), then headed for the hiking trails which are well marked, nicely wooded, and lead you to a long beach along the Baltic. After a lovely waterside stroll, we connected with another trail (everything is well marked) that brought as back to the harbor.
- The ferry back to Gdansk is once a day, so a crowd gathers at departure time, but it was a fairly efficient boarding process and there was plenty of room on the boat.
- As noted in the post, the ferry is not in a rush – with the one stop in Sopot, it takes nearly 3 hours. However, getting to cruise past the Westerplatte Monument (site of the start of WWII) is interesting
Breakfast:
The Fama Residence breakfast was again excellent, with some new and different items from yesterday.
Lunch:

Stopped at a Zabka store in Gdansk, a kind of Polish convenience store which seem to be everywhere. Got some sandwiches, fruit, snacks and water for a picnic lunch.
Dinner:
Pan Papuga:
After a long day traveling and walking, the tropical vibe and convenience of the hotel bar seemed perfect.




- Hel is a long trip and a full day. We definitely enjoyed our stroll through the woods and along the water and it was nice to get to the Baltic. Since we had 4 nights in Gdansk, it was worth doing (though some would argue we should have gone to Malbork Castle instead). With fewer days, I would pass on Hel
- Useful blog with more information:
- ttps://paliparan.com/2022/02/08/hel-peninsula-train-ferry-poland/